I spent the morning exploring Angkor Thom and the very impressive Bayon at its center before meeting up with my friends' in-laws for lunch. Even though the heat was starting to get to me, I could barely contain my excitement at what was going to come next. Angkor Wat is the best preserved, largest (nearly 500 acres) and most stunning temple complex left to us from the Khmer Empire. There are many that would argue that its mixture of architectural and artistic complexity and refinement make it the most spectacular building anywhere in the ancient world. It is so magnificent that Angkor Wat is the only archeological sight to be depicted on a national flag. Unable to wait for the others to finish eating, I ran off to the 900 year old structure telling them that somehow I would find them in a few hours despite my inability to speak the language.
Angkor Wat itself was built as a model of the Hindu cosmic world. The moat surrounding the temple represents the ocean that encompasses the world. The laterite enclosure wall is the bounder between the world and the cosmos. The three terraces of the temple to the three platforms of earth, water and wind on which the cosmic mountain rests The five towers in the center are the peaks of Mount Meru, with the most central and tallest tower corresponding to Mount Meru itself, which, for the Hindus, is where the gods live and is the center of all the physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes.
I approached the main causeway from the southwest so I could experience the moat, enclosure wall, the gopura (entry towers), and all five of the central towers from a single vantage point and take in, at least some, of the vastness of the complex. Walking up the stairs to the sandstone terrace I was greeted by giant stone lions on either side of me looking a little worse for wear, but still guarding the monument. Looking down the 250 meter long causeway to the tri-towered gopura the alignment and balance of the entire complex came into staggering clarity. As if to add a splash of chaos to the razor-like precision of the rest of the temple, all three of the gopura towers are different heights and the roofing between is uneven giving it a very serpentine look.
Walking east along the causeway, over the moat, I couldn't help but marvel at the jigsaw-like patterns of the stones making up the path. Its one thing to hand craft individual block that fit together in a wall, but to make a horizontal path over water like that must have taken a tremendous amount of planning and effort. I also couldn't help but notice that there was a pair of stone feet halfway down the path, probably taken from a statue during a past renovation. The approach from the west is one of the things that make this temple unique at Angkor, since all the others face east. This facing the setting sun, among other discoveries, have led archeologist to believe that its creator, King Suryavarman II, wanted to use it as a funerary temple. Even its association with Vishnu, rather than Shiva, like most other temples, point towards focusing more on the hereafter.
Once I reached the gopura, I took a right and started to enter the southern tower. Stored inside is Ta Reach, a statue of Vishnu with eight arms (one of the very few statues that survive from that era). Even though, around the 16th century, the Buddhists clamed Angkor Wat, the Hindu gods are still respected and this shrine still gets offerings from the monks. I took the covered gallery to the false door on the southern end and found a hole in the wall big enough to walk through. When I emerged, I was greeted with my first view of the entire main structure and the five main towers.
Turning left I walked along the porch of the gallery and enjoyed the intricate and well preserved carvings of divinities on the outside of the gallery. As I approached the central walkway, large and very beautiful Apsaras begin to appear. I'm pretty sure one of them was milking herself.
Back on the central path I saw, for the first time, the view that is depicted on the Cambodian flag. The 350 meter long, 9 meter wide walkway to the first level with the scaly body of a stone naga bordering it seemed long and imposing under the hot sun. However, I walked past the so-called 'libraries' that flank the walkway about half way down and turned off into the field putting the southern water basin between me and the main building. It was a little flooded, so I had to be carful where I stepped, but it was worth it when I saw all five towers and their reflection in the water. Crossing over to the northern basin I was able to get an even better view since
there was less flooding.
Returning to the walkway, I made it to the Terrace of Honor (where the king would view processions and receive foreign dignitaries) and the first level of Angkor Wat. Taking a right after entering, the covered Galleries of Bas-reliefs began. I was amazed by the beauty and strangeness of the long mural of sandstone
carvings. The fact that the murals are meant to be seen in a counter-clockwise direction (with the open air on the right and the murals on the left) is another indication of the temple being used for a funeral ceremony.
Heading south along the west gallery I first took in the "Battle of Kurukshetra". Based on the Hindu epic, Mahabharata, it depicts a battle between the army of Kauravas (on the left) against the army of the Pandavas (on the right). I noticed that several of the characters in the lower half of the mural are warn smooth and shiny. From what I could gather from passing tour groups, it use to be considered good luck and a sign of respect to rub the carvings as you pass by. Today, of course, touching the murals is frowned upon.
In the southwest corner pavilion there are some scenes from another Hindu epic, Ramayana. Thanks to water damage and poor lighting, much of it is hard to make out. However, my favorite part was over the opening in the east wall. It showed a duel between the two enemy brothers, Valin and Sugriva, the king of the monkeys. Sugriva wins, but all the monkeys' morn Valin.
In the South gallery is the "Army of King Suryavarman II". Much like the name implies, it shows King Suryavarman II (builder of Angkor Wat), over looking his army as it parades by.
After, passing the southern entry, allowing a glimpse of the central towers, the gallery picks up again with "Judgment by Yama/Heaven and Hell". It starts off with Yama judging the dead who either go to one of the 37 heavens on the top half of the mural, or 32 hells on the bottom half.
I was very disappointed to see the first mural in the east gallery, "Churning of the Sea of Milk", was being renovated because it was the only one I really knew anything about before getting there. It describes the Hindu creation myth from Bhagavata-Purana and depicts the actual churning of the cosmic Ocean of Milk to produce amrita.
"Victory of Vishnu of the Demons" shows Vishnu fighting an army of asuras coming at him from both sides.
The north gallery starts off with "Victory of Krishna over Bana". Krishna on his Garuda, busts through a wall of fire, gets by a rhinoceros riding Agni (god of fire), and finally cuts off all but two of Banas' one thousand hands.
The second part depicts "Battle between the Gods and the Demons", one of the murals I found most entertaining. I liked that each of the 21 gods have some crazy animal they are riding. For instance, Skanda (god of war) decides to ride in on a peacock, and Brahma is on a goose. If it were me I'd roll like Varuna (god of water), on a five headed naga (serpent).
In the northwest pavilion there are more depictions from Ramayana, only better preserved. My favorite bit here was on the north wall over the opening where Vishnu is kicking back on his serpent (Ananta) while his wife rubs his feet and topless Apsaras are flying over head.
Turning back onto the west gallery I reached the final mural, "Battle for Lanka". This was my favorite one of all, mostly because it is primarily a jumbled tangle of monkey on monkey fighting. It depicts the climax of the Ramayana epic, where Rama and his allies, together with the aid of Hanuman and his monkey army, defeats Ravana and successfully rescues Sita.
I was now ready to enter the western entrance to the cross-shaped galleries that provide the link between the first and second levels. On the right was the Gallery of "Prah Pean" (1,000 Buddhas) where there were hundreds (I don't know about 1,000) Buddha statues of various types. Most of them were missing at least one part, and several just had a chunk of the base remaining. After the hundreds of Buddha statues I had already seen on the trip, there was nothing here that I found remarkable enough to hang around for.
Next, I walked to the other sided of the Cross-Shaped Galleries and stood against the wall the northern exit. This tiny, yet tall, room is called the Hall of Echoes since when you beat your chest the sound resonates in a very unusual way. I have no idea if it was intended to react that way, but it was a fun experience.
After all the things I had seen, the second level seemed downright dull. Much of it seemed to be undecorated and plain. A place for kings and priests to walk around and think without much distraction I suppose. Between the smaller 2nd level libraries, I took the stairs up to the third and final level. After walking through a small gallery, I found myself in a stone courtyard dominated by the five central towers. To my dismay, they were all closed to the public with no reason given. To come all this way, just to have the last little bit snatched away from me was a little disappointing, but I was exhausted, soaked (from rain and sweat) and overwhelmed by the magnificence and sheer awesomeness of this temple. On the way back down, I couldn't help but notice that the view of the gopura was just as impressive on this side as it was on the other.
