Thursday, May 03, 2007

Ulysses Meandering - Part 4


Plaque #10 - “He entered Davy Byrne's. Moral pub. He doesn't chat.”

I only had to walk a few doors down from the previous stop before I found the 10th plaque. The 'moral pub' is still there and, like most places, there were several people eating on the tables just outside the pub. Sure enough one of those tables was sitting right on top of my plaque. Fortunately, I was in Ireland and not only was the group at this table nice enough to get up for a few seconds; they actually moved the table out of the way long enough for me to snap my picture. This particular pub is very popular on Bloomsday (June 16th) because it is where Bloom actually had his lunch. Apparently there is a line out the door of people in turn-of-the-century garb eagerly anticipating their gorgonzola cheese sandwiches and burgundy. I opted to pass on that meal.

Plaque #11 - “-- You're in Dawson street, Mr Bloom said. Molesworth street is opposite. Do you want to cross? There's nothing in the way.”

Feeling like I was walking around in circles, I once again stepped out on Duke Street and, once again, turned away from Grafton Street. I turned right on Dawson Street (instead of going strait on Dawson Lane) and I find my next plaque. Interestingly, at this point Joyce's Thom's Dublin Directory failed him due to a typo. There was an extra building at then end of the street and, while this might not seem like much, it did throw me off until I realized what had happened. Unlike Bloom, I didn't have a blind man to help across the road, but I crossed anyway and continued down Molesworth Street.

Plaque #12 - “Walking by Doran's public house he slid his hand between waistcoat and trousers and, pulling aside his shirt gently, felt a slack fold of his belly.”

Just past Frederick Street I found the spot were Bloom was trying to figure out if he cold feel colors. It is also the spot with the penultimate plaque. He decided that this wasn't really a good experiment since he already knew his stomach was "whitey yellow" and moved on.

Plaque #13 - “His hand looking for the where did I put found in his hip pocket soap lotion have to call tepid paper stuck, Ah, soap there I yes. Gate. Safe!"

As I walked up to Kildare Street, I couldn't see anyone around. In the book, however, Bloom sees Blazes Boylan. This makes Bloom uncomfortable (he know that in a few hours Boylan will be nailing his wife, many aspect of which are unabashedly described in chapter 18), so, while digging through is pockets, he scurried across the street and turned right on Kildare Street until he reached the gates of the National Museum...where the final plaque is.

I visited the museum early in the trip with Lk, so I didn't follow Bloom inside. It had a very impress and extensive collection of historical and archeological treasures from all over Ireland. My favorite part was seeing real bog bodies up-close. I tried to get into the Library (where the next chapter starts) directly across the lot, but it was closed. I then decided to take up the challenge posed by Joyce in chapter 4 (Calypso) and see if I could 'cross Dublin without passing a pub.' I didn't make it very far. However, I must admit, I wasn't trying very hard.

No comments: